Having spent almost 2 weeks in Iran – time that flew by way too fast – I find myself getting all pumped up and ready for my next destination. But before I move on, it is important for me to reflect on my Iranian experience.
(Leaving my – ephemeral – footprint in Naqsh-e Jahan square, the second largest square in the world. Pictures can’t do this experience justice.)
The evening before my flight to Tehran from Baku, I spent some time sitting at the airport wondering: will I be able to get a visa? since I can’t get money from the ATMs there, will my money be enough? will I be able to connect with the locals? will World War 3 happen while I’m traveling there?
Silly Lina, and her silly doubts.
(An overnight stay at the desert, sleeping under the stars and the moon, surrounded by countless sand hills. Dreamed it and then real lifed it in Khara Desert, Iran.)
Iran has been if not the kindest, then definitely one of the most gentle countries to have me. During these past few days I never felt threatened, I never even got worried about myself or my belongings. Never in my travels did I have so many people welcome me to their country, strangers stopping in the middle of the street just to say “Welcome to Iran! Welcome to my country!” and then continuing on their path. Don’t get me wrong, some people did look at me like I didn’t belong, but they were way too few to count; I am, after all, a foreigner.
(Everything is art in Iran. It hides in the details, it throws its beauty in your face, it’s audacious and bold and wonderful.)
In addition to being safe, Iran is extremely affordable. During my two weeks of travels here I spent less than $200, including a tour to Persepolis and an overnight stay at the desert which were the most “costly” of my experiences. Being a backpacker on a budget I slept in cheap yet clean dorms that offered free breakfast, while the rest of my meals were filling and honestly even extravagant at times without stretching my pockets. Finally, transportation was comfortable and at the same time very affordable.
Now to the best part of my time spent here: Iranians. I’ve already written about two different instances that got me tearing up in public because of these people’s kindness towards a complete stranger, but I assure you there were more. I had my taxi paid for without any questions asked; I had people helping me with a smile without understanding what I was saying, but by knowing what I needed through gestures; I was offered food and drink and a place to sit without being bothered; men and women would stop and chat with me and share life for a few minutes, just for the sake of connecting; and all of this without them expecting any money from me or to to sell me something: it was nothing but pure curiosity and interest. I am honored to have experienced this kind, beautiful part of the world, and to have been reminded that it still exists.
(Tight alleys and open doors and kind people, they all make Iran a concoction of mystery gentleness and beauty worth tasting at least once in your lifetime.)
Having spent enough time with different Iranians, it is easy to say they carry many different emotions towards their current life, their past and their future – although they all agreed in one thing: they are not afraid of getting involved in a war; they all talked degradingly towards certain leaders from certain countries, and they all know that there is no real threat. Iranians love their country, and yet many yearn to leave it- if they haven’t left already. Given that I spoke with people from different ages who come in contact daily with tourists, Iranians know much about the freedom many parts of the world experience, and they desire a piece of that freedom as well. And I cannot blame them. For instance, about 80% of the local women have higher education, probably the highest among the Middle East countries – remnant of a reality that existed not too long ago – and yet only 20% of them can get a job in their field. This is just a small example of the unfairness towards these people, and unfortunately not the only one. I came across some extremely talented people who worked as taxi drivers, hostel owners, tour guides, and while there’s nothing wrong with these careers, one could tell these people are hungry for something more, and they know they got what it takes.
(I’m only cool enough to recognize Mahi’s talent, the woman who made this mural at the Anar Hostel in Isfahan, Iran.)
Overall, Iran and its people deserve way more attention than they get from travel agencies and the media. It is not just a destination for the daring, it is a country that deserves to be in everyone’s travel list, if not for the unique architecture, fascinating history, wonderful nature, yummy Persian food, crazy bazaars, then for its people.
(The Winter’s darkness in the garden is praying to God for the new season to arrive. And then Spring and light and its softness are finally here. Things are better now.)
Thank you for having me Iran. Until we meet again 🇮🇷